Sunday, March 25, 2012

Coming Full Circle


Remember that old saying “what goes around, comes around?”  I’m feeling just a bit that way lately.  After concentrating on the spinning and knitting for the last nine or ten years, I find myself back in the arms of my first love – weaving.  All the way back, actually, to my very first weaving tool, a rigid-heddle (RH) loom.  And I’m falling in love with weaving all over again…

Knitters have discovered that weaving is a fabulous stash-buster.  That woven fabrics can be wonderfully complemented by their knitting/crocheting skills.  And that, while weaving may take a bit more yarn than knitting (although that depends on the project), you can successfully mix yarns, fibers and textures in woven cloth that you’d never try to combine in a looped fabric.  That weaving, especially on a rigid-heddle loom, is faster than knitting.  You can weave a 9- or 12-foot long Dr. Who scarf in two or three evenings, use up all those ten to twenty-five yard bits and pieces of yarn stuck in your storage, and know that it’s absolutely original.  Nobody has exactly the same stash!  It’s fairly portable if you choose your loom carefully, and modern RH loom makers have discovered ways to enhance that portability.

There is definitely a learning curve to weaving, and a sometimes confusing vocabulary.  But that’s true of knitting and spinning as well.  If you become frustrated by that curve, think back to when you started knitting or spinning – I bet you got pretty frustrated at times then, too.  Weaving is a skill worth learning, and not just as a way to use up all those odd bits of yarn.  It’s a free-form, yet structured process that exercises our creativity and stretches our brains in new directions.  It lets us look at our beloved yarns in new and exciting ways.  And it’s quite a lot of fun!

My first weaving was done on a rigid-heddle loom approximately two and a half decades ago.  I wove yards and yards of plain-weave fabric on that 32-inch Beka, and learned so much about setts, beats and how to make decent cloth from different fibers!  Warp and weft-faced weaves, pick-up weaves, working with two heddles…I spent hours and hours happily weaving.  But after acquiring my first multi-harness loom I left the Beka to gather dust, and eventually it found a new home.   I thought of it as a loom I’d outgrown, and although I regularly utilized inkle and card looms, I seldom thought of a rigid-heddle again.
 
After going back to work outside the house full-time, after the children left, after I’d spent 15 years or more exploring and then teaching knitting and spinning…my LYS owner started asking questions about my "other" hobby.  She’d taken a weaving class at a retail event and gotten interested, and wanted to know if I would teach a basic weaving class.  We kicked it around for a while, I did some research, and I eventually realized that the reappearance of rigid-heddle looms I’d largely ignored was a true weaving resurgence.  So I bought a modern rigid-heddle loom and started playing (a Kromski Harp in the 16-inch width).  I didn’t expect to fall in love all over again; after all, I still weave on my floor looms!  But a RH loom is a wonderfully versatile tool for serious weavers as well as for knitters in search of ways to use stash and those wondering if weaving is something they’d like to do.

Warping was the first difference I noticed between then and now.  Direct warping may have been around the first time I used a RH loom, but I never ran across the concept.  This was pre-internet, remember.  Warping meant a warping board, and my first one was home-made and 45-inches square.  Definite overkill for the purpose, but I used that board for years and years until I bought a warping mill.  Direct warping a RH loom is so easy!  And fast!  Who knew you could warp an entire loom with a single clamped peg!

The second thing I re-learned is that RH weaving doesn’t have very many ends.  My weaving life for many years has consisted of setts of 36 or more ends per inch (epi).  10 or 12 epi feels vaguely like cheating.  But those are the setts necessary for utilizing knitting yarns of approximately 1800-2400 yards per pound.   That range includes sport, fingering, sock and lace yarns and is perfect for making a wonderfully wearable cloth with lovely drape or a sturdy warp-or weft-faced fabric.  Perfect for scarves, household linens like placemats and table runners, or fabric well-suited (pun not intended) for vests, tops and skirts. 

The last thing I recalled was the pure fun of making simple plain-weave fabrics.  I’m loving sock yarn for RH weaving.  The fabric, sett at 10 or 12 epi and with carefully-placed weft threads to make a balanced fabric, is lightweight, easy to weave and wear, and I’m becoming excited about combining it with knitting to make garments.  It also has fantastic color-and-weave properties.  Space-dyed sock yarns combine on a loom to make subtle (or bold) plaids; the same yarns used as either warp or weft with complementary colors can give lively, playful fabrics.

I’ve seen some beautiful worsted-weight woven fabric, too.  While my own taste and climate runs toward lighter fabrics, there is absolutely a climate and place for worsted-weight wools.  And I will use worsted-weight yarns as an accent in woven yardage; some of them add just the right zing.

All of this is a precursor to the main thrust of this entry – I taught my first weaving class in more than a decade on Saturday afternoon:  Beginning Rigid Heddle Weaving.  I think, from the assessments submitted to the LYS owner, that the class members had almost as much fun as I did.  I loved doing this class and being able to share my first fiber love with other fiber people.  I look forward to teaching more weaving classes.  I hadn’t realized how much I missed sharing weaving with other people, and I’m grateful to my LYS for jump-starting me again! 

So if you’re a spinner or a long-time knitter with a bump of curiosity about weaving, go for it!  You’ve got nothing to lose but some stash!

Sunday, March 18, 2012

On Leaving Your Comfort Zone


Blocking Multnomah
Most of the folks around me are well aware that I’m not a pattern knitter.  I prefer to come up with my own interpretation of a given garment.  There are several reasons, really.  I’m not all that easy to fit, I have firm opinions regarding what styles and textures look good on me, and I love the challenge of making up my own patterns.  Check my Ravelry profile at pjkite – you’ll see that most of the projects listed are original designs.  However, once in a while I see something that I want to make.  Multnomah, a shawl by Kate Ray, was one of those. 

Some of you may realize that it’s quite similar to a square shawl I made back in 2004 – a handspun Merino-Clun Forest-cross garter-stitch square knitted on the diagonal with a Feather and Fan edging.  That one was a baby shawl for my first grandson.  I love F&F laces – I’ve made that shawl, a couple pair of socks, trim for a sweater or two, another shawl in a Beugler variation of F&F…you get the idea.  I needed a lightweight shawl for occasional wear, I’d seen several versions of this made during a LYS KAL last year during which I was making baby shawls and I’d liked it.  This yarn was a souvenir from a trip to North Carolina.  So I left my comfort zone of self-design behind and printed out the pattern.  Now that the finished shawl is blocking on the spare room bed, I must admit I’m quite happy with it.  If you’re familiar with the pattern, you realize that I extended the lace a bit.  Two reasons, actually – I wanted to use all of the yarn and I thought the pattern as written was a bit shorter than I wanted.  So there are 13 lace repeats instead of 10.
Close-up of lace edging
 
Of course, after finishing this project this morning, I’ve cast on a baby sweater for charity based on a pattern of my own…I’m unlikely to stray from my comfort zone too often, after all!


Other things on the burner include lace-weight locally-raised Shetland for another grandchild.  Probably not a shawl this time, though (I think I’ve burned out on complicated shawls for a while).  I’m leaning more in the direction of a christening gown.  But a final decision will depend on the ultrasound next week and what it shows about the sex of this newest family addition.  Another little boy may send me in the direction of a bunting or a sweater, cap and leggings!  In whichever case, the laceweight yarn will be needed – so I’ve started spinning and have the first 100 yards of 2-ply drying.

Let’s see…a Rigid Heddle loom class is scheduled for later this month at my LYS, so I’m working on a sample project (a scarf from sock yarns) and writing up the class material.  I’m really looking forward to this one – it’s been too long since I taught a weaving class, and no matter how much I love spinning, knitting, tatting and all the rest, weaving will always be my first love.  I hope to finish up the weaving itself tomorrow or Tuesday, the finishing the next day, and have it complete.  Then it will be on to the next warp!

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Historical Knitting Redux



Knitting has been around for a while now.  Franklin Habit and others have looked back through patterns from the past and updated them for modern knitters.  But what about those who find patterns they want to knit that haven’t been updated?  Sail fearlessly onward – but realize that common sense, math and tinking are required tools for the trip!

Patterns from prior to World War I are frequently rather imprecise to modern minds.  But modern patterns are of quite recent historical origin.  “Recipe” knitting, with yarn, needles, and gauge specified, is definitely new-fangled.  Publishers before the mid-twentieth century found this an unnecessary waste of paper, being well aware that the knitters could and would modify patterns to suit themselves.  How could publishers know this?  Because they had either knitted themselves as children or watched female relatives knitting for as long as they could remember.

A digression:  My great-grandmother, born in 1876, taught me the basics of knitting and other needlework (quilting, embroidery and crochet) in my early childhood years.  She was horrified that at the ripe old age of 6, I didn’t already know the basics, and had some sharp words to say to my long-suffering mother.  Mother, in her defense, was great at polishing skills, but didn’t have the patience to start from scratch (especially with a tomboy daughter who really didn’t want to learn).  Grandma Lay taught me the same way she learned from her mother – she gave me the appropriate tools, showed me how it was supposed to be done a couple of times, and then made me practice.  While that had its bad points (I couldn’t tension English-fashion purl for decades – it was a mental block), it also had its good ones.  Specifically, I'm not dependent on patterns for more than a starting suggestion, and I modify anything that appeals to me in whatever fashion I like.  I do gauge swatches and actually use them (even when they lie to me), and am not intimidated by simple mathematics.  All are useful skills to have in areas outside knitting…

Patterns written prior to WWI had several purposes, including education and relief from the feeling of isolation experienced by many rural women or those tending several small children at home.  The population was now largely literate and was finally able to count on timely mail delivery, so publication was practical.  A certain amount of both leisure time and disposable income was becoming available to the middle class, and that middle class was growing in size.  The industrial revolution and faster transportation had begun to touch daily life, making household production of fabrics and food more a matter of choice than a never-ending chore.  Magazines devoted to various aspects of daily life became quite popular, especially with women in rural or small-town areas who wanted to know about the latest styles and trends in the larger cities.  These magazines are fascinating reading; they touch on almost every aspect of daily life, and give a fairly accurate picture of that life.  My grandmother kept the most important of her magazines (1920’s through 1970’s) handy, and referred to them often for needlework ideas and recipes. 

Patterns written within the time frame referenced above make a lot of assumptions.  First is that you already know more than a little bit about knitting, because you've been doing it since you were a child.  You already know that changing your needle size will change your gauge and fabric drape.  So there isn't a recommendation as to needle size.  It’s assumed that you know what sort of fabric you want, and you'll swatch or modify your knitting method to get that fabric.  If it’s a pattern for socks, you know to use small needles for a firm fabric.  If it’s a lace pattern, you’ll choose thread/yarn to match the weight of either the fabric you’re matching or the fabric you want to create, and swatch with your chosen thread to be sure you’re actually getting that fabric.  You know that a warm shawl can be made in a lace pattern with worsted or even light-weight wool, and that a lacy summer piece requires a fine cotton thread and smaller needles.

A digression on one comment above:  Why modify your knitting rather than simply change needle size?  A couple of reasons come immediately to mind, both practical.  First, because a knitter in the mid-nineteenth century probably only had two or three sets of double-point needles - one small, fine set of steel lace/sock needles in about a size 0 or 00, one mid-size set of something about a size 3-4, and one large set of around a size 8.  Those were all the average rural knitter had to work with.  And, when you think about it, those are also probably the needles you use most often yourself as a modern knitter.

Needle manufacture was a bit different then, as well.  Steel needles were machine-made of hardened wire or made by a local smith, and were usually purchased - at a relatively high cost.  The mid- and large-size needles, at least in the Appalachians, were usually whittled by a sweetheart, father or brother, or perhaps by the knitter herself, and size would vary with the skill of the whittler and the desire of the knitter.  The fine steel needles were frequently a gift - my great-grandmother received hers the year before she married (in the 1890’s), and she still had them in 1962.  They were carefully stored in a wooden container between uses, and there were 12 in the set, allowing them to be used for large circular items as well as fine two-needle work.  She simply used the number of needles she needed for the project at hand.  Her larger needles were made from branches of trees located nearby.  Some were gifts, hand-whittled by her husband or sons; most she had whittled out herself as she needed them.  They were polished smooth from years of use.  Aluminum needles were just becoming readily available in the rural Southeast in 1962, and she enjoyed looking at them, but I noticed that she used the wooden needles most of the time and left the ‘new’ needles for us.  She also liked the idea of the circular needles becoming available at that time, but found them frustrating to use because of the poor joins.

The second reason patterns were modified by individual knitters had to do with the yarn itself.  By the 1850's and 60's, mill-spun yarns were available.  But hand-spinning was still going on, especially in rural areas.  So patterns concentrated on showing new stitches, techniques and currently fashionable fit and allowed those experienced knitters to choose how they wanted to use the information.  Those of us who are spinners know all too well the differences between commercially- and hand-spun yarns.  Modern knitters who are fortunate enough to be gifted with good handspun frequently become spinners themselves!  And in the 1850’s and 60’s, spinning wheels were still basic pieces of equipment in most rural homes, and using handspun was a matter of economy – the sheep were there and grew wool every year that had to be sheared, so why let it go to waste?

Reasonable estimates of needle sizes used with specific yarns…again, it depends on the fabric you want.  My own estimates, worked out from my own experience and watching my knitting friends and relatives are: size 30 or finer cotton – use 000’s to 2’s.  Lace-weight wool/alpaca/silk/cotton – size 0 to size 5, depending on the fabric you want.  Sport-weight yarn will use about a size 3-4; worsted weight yarns will call for something like those ubiquitous size 8’s or even a 10.  Of course, if you’re doing socks, all needles sizes go down – you want a firm fabric.  If you’re doing lace, needles sizes may go way up. 

Great-grandma never fussed about swatching.  She actually seemed to enjoy it and her ‘swatch blankets’ (afghans today) were treasured by those fortunate enough to receive one.  She saved swatches, stacked neatly in a wooden box, until she had enough to crochet together into a blanket.  Those swatches…sometimes she would make three or four 4-inch squares before she found the exact fabric she wanted.  I can remember my grandmother teasing her that she wanted to finish up another blanket more than she wanted to make a new cap or sweater. 

So, my advice to those attempting ‘historical’ knitting is to swatch before you begin, and knit mindfully.  Abbreviations aren’t necessarily the same, and you may not have a key.  Hopefully you’ll have a picture of a finished article – use the scanner or a magnifying glass and blow it up as much as possible.  You’ll be surprised at the detail that you can see that way.  And don’t fret if you have to do more tinking and ripping than usual.  Just think of all the experience you’re gaining!

Why Redux


I am a wife and mother of three grown children who is also a currently-unemployed Administrative Assistant.  Job-hunting is a full-time job in itself, especially in this economy.  So why on earth do I spend any time at all cleaning and combing the hair from any one of several ruminant quadrupeds?  I spend even more time twisting that hair into lengths of many hundreds of yards.  Does that finish the process?  No.  That is merely the beginning.  Then that hair is frequently dyed in a painstaking process that involves, again, precious time.  After drying, the next stage in the process begins.  Now why on earth would any sane human adult in our society choose to spend many hours using two or more pointed sticks to loop a continuous length of yarn into a shaped fabric?  Or using a hand loom to make woven fabric?

Let’s take a stab at an answer to those questions.  However, a caveat; this answer is quite subjective and getting it means that we must wander through my history.  My reasons for spinning and knitting will almost certainly not be yours.  Everyone has different reasons for their hobbies (or manias, depending on your definition of those terms).  

My daughter, during her teen years, described my mania to a friend by making a simple declarative statement that showed an amazing amount of insight.  Her comment, “Don’t interfere with Mom’s fiber time.  If she doesn’t do something ‘fibery’ every day she gets spiritually constipated and cranky.”  That is a fair description of fiber deprivation as demonstrated in my own personality.  But how did I come to the point where I routinely describe myself as a fiber artist?  What is a fiber artist, anyway?

‘Fiber artist:  An individual utilizing specific fiber-based media in the creation of original designs for the purpose of evoking emotion in the viewer.’  Of course that description holds true for any artistic expression.  In fact, a case could be made for a similar truism in any other medium.  Grant the artistic impulse which is generated in various forms in every human soul and you have the remainder of the equation to explore.  Why fiber as a medium instead of oil or watercolor or wood or clay or paper or bright, shiny beads, or…? 

In my case, it may be genetic, but is most probably environmental.  I can’t remember a time when I wasn’t routinely exposed to fiber as an artistic medium.  During the time and place in which I was raised, it was the most common medium for females.  One great-grandmother taught me to knit (badly), crochet, embroider and quilt (all quite well) as a child.  My grandmother was a seamstress, quilter, and crocheter of no mean ability, and a wonderful teacher.  My mother is a master quilter and exceptional seamstress.  I simply followed in the footsteps of my maternal ancestors.  But a combination of circumstances led me to begin my own creative process several steps before any of my childhood mentors considered “necessary”.  In fact, I feel a greater kinship with the great-grandmother who forced me to seed cotton on winter afternoons for her use in quilt battings.  She was the one with a spinning wheel and loom in the shed.

Need I say that I was a child of the 1970’s?  I graduated from high school in the early part of the decade, at the height of what was disparagingly called “the hippie movement.”  Was I a hippie?  No.  I was a middle-class Appalachian steel magnolia, the daughter of refugees from the coal mines of East Tennessee.  I was firmly encouraged to make better grades than most of the others, boys and girls, in my elementary and high-school classes.  After all, education had been my parents’ tickets from hardscrabble farms and mining; it would be my own passport to a better life.  I found all the nonsense about protesting the Vietnam War distasteful, since I had beloved uncles and cousins in the Armed Forces.  The fledgling feminist movement made sense to me though.  I was brighter than most of the men and boys I knew, and saw no reason to think less of myself because I was born with ovaries instead of testicles. 

Some things about the “hippie style” did appeal to me, though.  I loved the crocheted vests and bags, the long, flowing skirts, and the embroidered jeans and fringed shirts for weekend wear.  And I had a secret vice.  I made my own vests and bags and skirts and embroidered my jeans during the hours after school and on weekends. 

I was finally “outed” by my best friend at a slumber party, when one of the other girls commented on the vest I was wearing.  Her matter-of-fact reply of, “She made it,” to the question of where I’d found it started me in my first business venture.  After a commission refused to pay up, I stopped taking orders and began teaching those who wanted my vests and bags how to crochet their own.  Those teaching sessions continued into my college years and beyond – all the way to the present.  I’m still teaching anyone who expresses an interest.

A highlight of my childhood was our weekend (or longer) family trips.  We would pile into the car, a tent, cooler and camping equipment stuffed into the trunk, and choose a direction.  My father loved to drive, and my mother enjoyed exploring as much as he did.  During the course of our rambles, we covered most of the cultural and historical stops within a three-day drive of Knoxville.  I was always fascinated by the looms and spinning wheels I saw at places like Rugby and Cades Cove.  This was what the pile of lumber in Grandpa’s storage shed looked like all put together!  I started checking the News-Sentinel on Sunday for places to go that might have demonstrations of real people using those tools.  Since these were educational trips, my father could frequently be persuaded into making our rambles in the direction of whatever demonstrations I found.  My mother, while enjoying the demonstrations, was somewhat contemptuous.  “Why make your own fabric when the cloth shops are full of more material than you could ever sew?” was a frequent comment.  Nevertheless, I continued to be a fascinated spectator of weaving into my thirties, through marriage and the births of my three children. 

I was sidetracked many times through the years, learning to tat after the birth of my daughter and learning many other crafts because they looked interesting.  Fads came and went – plastic film flowers, cake decorating, pastry baking, silk ribbon embroidery and painting in various media.  The pursuits I continued, however, were the tatting, quilting, crochet, and embroidery.  Do you notice a common thread (pun intended)?

As sometimes happens, an illness precipitated my change from weaving spectator to weaving student.  During my thirties I developed health problems that necessitated my staying home for several years.  I loved being with my pre-school- and elementary-aged children, but needed something to occupy my mind during times when I was especially ill.  My doctors encouraged mental activity and mild exercise, and my husband provided the final stimulus.  His query was so simple, “What have you always wanted to do ‘when you had the time’?”  But the constraints were the same as faced by all of us who are parents – it had to be something I could do at home while watching the children and the cost of the equipment had to fit within our budget.  After a day or two of soul-searching, I answered him by saying, “I’ve always wanted to learn to weave.”  I had no idea of the journey on which I was embarking with that statement!

With his active support, I began looking for information on weaving.  You have to remember that this was pre-internet.  I started at the same place I began most searches for knowledge – the local library.  There was little available, but I devoured it and looked for more.  One of the librarians sent me to the local craft cooperative, where I found an entire room full of real looms!  I also discovered a bookshelf I could peruse and a weaving teacher, who, while unable to teach me on my schedule, nevertheless steered me in the direction of magazines like Weaver’s and Handwoven, and to resources like the Handweavers Guild of America. Through a convoluted chain of acquaintances I found a local weaver who wanted to sell a four-harness jack loom and my darling husband worked overtime to pay for it.  The day we brought it home was right up there with bringing my children home from the hospital for excitement and anticipation.  I’ve never looked back.  The mysteries of warp and weft, cotton and wool and rayon and silk, overshot and huck lace and twills kept me happily occupied throughout the next three years.  Items from that loom still see daily use in both my own home and those of my friends and family.

My grandmother was more than encouraging, reminiscing about her mother-in-law’s spinning and weaving and telling the entire family what I was doing.  My mother’s objections lasted until her first gift of hand woven fabric in her favorite fiber and color, and then evaporated.  An unexpected windfall resulted in my purchase of a new Schacht Baby Wolf 8-harness loom.  And my children’s teachers discovered that I was willing to haul my loom to their classrooms and show students the basics of creating their own fabric.  Things began to snowball rapidly.  Suddenly I was a juried member of a nationally recognized craft guild, the internet was starting up, computers were in the home, not just at work, and people were asking me to teach them about weaving.  I’d come around the circle from student to teacher yet again. 

My looms and yarns moved from the basement to a studio carved from what had previously been our living room with the purchase of a Toika countremarche loom.  The light is the best available in our house, and we were only using the room for the Christmas tree, anyway (of course I rationalized).  And the move prevented my husband from bumping his hip on the warp beam crank every time he came through from the office to the den!  It also meant that I could take care of chores like cooking more easily, and it gave me a more central location from which to participate in family life – I was turning into a hermit in the basement!

About the time my daughter started high school I joined a local guild composed of weavers, knitters, and spinners.  All the members were spinners except me.  Like my mother before me, I couldn’t see why I should bother acquiring smelly fleeces, bales of cotton lint and boxes of silk cocoons when there were all those lovely yarns and threads out there to buy.  Then the group did a public demonstration at a local museum.  We were the most popular attraction in the place, partly because we were using both modern and the museum’s antique equipment.  The crowd’s interest kept all of us hopping.  By the end of that Saturday I had picked up a toy wheel drop spindle and some Romney sliver and begun on the most basic stage of my fiber education.

The drop spindle soon moved over to my workbag as a portable way to spin.  My medical problems had been alleviated by new treatments and I was again outside the house, first as a student and then back at my old job of administrative assistant.  A third-hand handmade Saxony spinning wheel first joined the looms in my studio.  It was a pretty wheel, but not exactly what I wanted (it was too large for the space I had, too fast for a beginner, and the single-treadle style made my back ache).  So I sold it and replaced it with an Ashford Traveller DT, which I still own.  A couple of years later I purchased a Majacraft Suzie, which I soon replaced with a Rose from the same manufacturer.  I’m currently the owner of four wheels, having added a Kromski Symphony and antique great wheel to the mix.  The Toika moved to the basement (anyone want to purchase a really good loom?) and the studio morphed back into a living room…changes abounded as the children grew and moved out.

I started knitting again, too, after many years of only crocheting, and now I’m actually teaching knitting!  I have something of a passion for socks from my handspun, and adore lace shawls and scarves.  I’ve made sweaters, Shetland baby shawls, lace scarves and myriad other projects – and become locally known as the knitter who never uses a patten! 

My weaving life isn’t over, although the focus has shifted.  Loom pieces tend to be long warps of fine cotton in a point twill block weave order (huck lace is a favorite) that I can make up fairly quickly for a gift or on a whim.  I’m going back, utilizing a rigid-heddle loom for personal projects and teaching, and loving the unrivaled capacity for finger manipulation it offers.

I’m creating patterns, practicing techniques, teaching classes and learning all the time, from internet discussion groups and lists, and books and magazines, and other fiber artists.  The things I learn for one technique always apply to others.  I’m a better knitter because I crochet and weave, a better weaver because I sew and knit.  I thoroughly understand the crafts behind my art, which gives me choices - choices that enable me to make whatever I envision. 

Yes, I’m teaching.  A yarn shop has opened in our small town, and I love teaching classes there – classes that include spinning, knitting and weaving.  I spend the remainder of my free (hah!) time doing the things I choose to do.  Those choices include cleaning, combing and twisting the hair of ruminant quadrupeds, dyeing it and then creating various articles with it.  Sometimes those articles are for wear, sometimes for display.  But they always include a bit of my soul, and attempt to share my feelings with the wearers and/or viewers.  And that is the definition of art we talked about at the beginning of this ramble!

Another note:  I am an artist of the old school, with an understanding of the craft involved in creating my art.  Did you know that painting students used to have to learn to spin and weave so that they could choose the best fabric for a canvas and particular medium?  They had to grind and mix their own paints, too.  Sculpting students learned to quarry stone, woodworkers felled trees and dried wood, and some potters still dig their own clay from riverbanks.  Our society sometimes forgets that there is considerable craft involved in the creation of fine art.  The best tools in the world don’t provide the means of expression until you learn how best to utilize them. 

In my journey I’ve gone from sewing fabric to designing and manufacturing fabric, which, given the demise of cloth shops, can be very handy.  I can make whatever I imagine, as long as I’m willing to take the time to do it.  I have the skills necessary to create a fabric in whatever technique suits my design.  I don’t have to restrict my design to the materials commercially available – if I want silk or cashmere or alpaca I buy the fibers and spin the threads in the weight I want.  If I don’t like the currently available color palate, I dye the fiber or yarn the color I choose. 

In conclusion, I spin, weave, knit, tat, crochet, make needle and bobbin laces, sew and quilt because something in my soul finds its best expression through the manipulation of myriad small bits of hair from various plants and animals.  I do these things because I want to, and because I can.  And I share them with other people because I love to share my enthusiasm.  One thing leads to another, and influences the next.  My curiosity has driven this journey, and will continue to drive me into whatever the next phase happens to be – today I don’t have a clue where I’m going next!  But I’m happy with my today, and isn’t that the most important thing?

General Information


Yes, I’m the same person who had the Fiberlife blog, also on Blogspot, for so many years.  Alas, Google changes, memories drop passwords, and I’ve had to start over on a new page at a new URL.  While the title is the same, the address is different.

I’ll be updating and reposting many of the informational files from the previous blog – so if you’re used to seeing them, they’ll be revised a bit to include new information, but will also sound familiar.

I’m teaching more these days, and will be happy to meet anyone who’s in the East Tennessee area at my LYS – just drop me an email.  My LYS is Clinch River Yarn Company, 725 N. Charles Seivers Blvd., Clinton, TN 37716.  Even if I can’t meet you, it’s still worth a trip – just a few miles off I-75 and a wonderful yarn shop with a welcoming atmosphere.  Sandy and Robin are fantastic ladies!

So please check back – I’m happy to have you!

Pam

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Gauge Woes


Yes, it’s been a while.  Things were happening in my life at warp speed…and now they’ve slowed down.  I’ve now got time (and the mental energy – long story) to come back to my beloved blog and actually feel as though I have something to say again.  So hello again, to my old friends, and welcome! to any new ones who happen to discover this by typing “gauge” into a search engine while cursing under their breath!

Generally, gauge and I get along pretty well.  I make large gauge swatches in the technique I plan to use for the garment, wash and dry before measuring, and things work out fairly well.  But every once in a while, gauge (thanks, Yarn Harlot, for the curse!) will bite me – and it’s always my own fault! 

Enter a lovely, farm-grown, hight Cestari wool yarn in a soft gray.  My LYS (Clinch River Yarn Company, Clinton, TN) started stocking this stuff not long ago, and I fell in love with the wool version of their yarn…DK weight, 5 sts/inch, softens nicely when washed, holds a cable beautifully and a lace pattern just as well.  My favorite type of woolen yarn, and one I can add to my “workhorse” list for the knitting classes I teach with such verve.  I’d been longing for a cabled cardigan to wear during the winter – even though this particular winter has been pretty much non-existent – to keep myself warm while the thermostat is at 67 degrees F. at my house. 

I started looking at patterns (yes, I know I don’t usually use patterns, but I was looking for cable stitches and got seduced into a pattern book that wound up on my shelves because it was a gift) and found a cable that I loved.  All right, the sweater shown was a boat-necked, top-down, pull-over tunic that would make me look like a barn – I still loved the 4-stitch cable swimming in a sea of reverse stockinette.  So, taking that pattern as my starting point, I resumed my right mind and started swatching…sort of.  The pattern recommended a swatch in stockinette stitch, even though the cabling was obvious, and for some insane reason (how many glasses of wine DID I have with supper that night?  I thought I stopped at one…) I swatched for my cardigan, which I’d already decided would have a *6-stitch cable, purl 2, 2-stitch cable, purl 2* patterning in stockinette and be knit in the round with steeks.  I told you, I don’t know what I was thinking…well, I obviously wasn’t – not at all!

I got a gauge of 4 stitches and 5 rows per inch over an 8 x 6-inch flat stockinette swatch after washing.  I shrugged (no, I haven’t developed a drinking problem – I just developed a blind spot with this particular yarn and pattern!  Admit it, you’ve done the same thing.), plugged that gauge information into Sweater Wizard™, and tweaked to my measurements, inputting the selections for a bottom-up in the round cardigan with a round neck and steeks.

Despite a vague feeling that I might want to make another swatch, I cast on.  Blocking solves a lot of problems, I loved the stitch pattern I’d devised, and I’ve been losing weight like crazy after a discovery that I have a sensitivity to some very common components of the everyday U.S. diet (can we say “gluten sensitivity?”).  So I quieted my forebodings with the surety that I’d lose any needed avoirdupois by the time the cardigan was finished.  After all, I’ve lost 35 pounds in the last 5 months!  I’ll surely start to lose some of the “girls” mass within the next few pounds! (I haven’t, by the way…perhaps I have a bit of Parton in my genetic makeup?)

Currently, I’m finishing up the second sleeve on this cardigan.  My DH, for whom I have knit little in the last couple of years, what with grandchildren (and there’s another on the way, we’ve been informed recently) and all, has been more than gracious about giving way – but has commented that he “loves” (not a word he uses to describe inanimate objects as a general rule) the cable pattern on this cardigan - more than once.  After the third reiteration, I bought sufficient Cestari in a lovely dark red to make him a much-deserved cardigan vest.  Meanwhile, I’m still working on the soft gray cardigan for myself.  But having misgivings.

I had my suspicions early on – it just looked a little small in circumference.  But at the same time, I’ve lost that sense of “this is how big I am” that I carried around for years.  I had re-measured before plugging numbers into the Sweater Wizard™ program, and I knew I was quite a bit smaller than I was when I started my last sweater.  On a 5-foot nothing frame, 35 pounds is a significant proportion of your total mass!  So I kept knitting.  Although I did increase the number of rows in both the body and the armscrye of the cardigan – mostly because the numbers obtained following the pattern just seemed way too short (and thank goodness I did!).

I DID have enough sense to go ahead and stitch and cut the steeks before I started the sleeves, and washed and blocked the main part of the sweater.  Oops!  It was, indeed, going to be a bit snug.  It missed meeting by about 3.5-4.0 inches at the front bust line.  All right, the bottom had a 1.5-inch ribbing – if I duplicated, or even expanded that, a bit on the front bands, it would be fine.  Right.  I can do that.  I still love the yarn and the look of the sweater, and the wide front bands will be fashionable.

Meanwhile, some vicious imp persuaded me to measure my DH, then (oh, no!) measure the washed, blocked and dried portion of the gray cardigan in preparation for plugging my DH’s numbers into the computer for my DH’s cardigan vest.  Dirty word, dirty word, expletive deleted, darn!  The gauge (over the pattern, instead of over stockinette stitch) was 5 stitches and 6 rows per inch!

You can’t call me anything I haven’t already called myself.  Yes, I’m finishing the cardigan.  Even if I can’t wear it, either my mother or my daughter will be thrilled to get a beautiful garment that fits them so perfectly.  I’ll decide when I’m at the 1.5-inch point on the front bands whether I’m going to try to make them 2 inches each so it will fit me, or give up and bind off…and give the cardigan to either Mother or my DD. 

And, Yarn Harlot?  I know I just bought your latest book (it’s wonderful, as always)…but I’m not sure I’m going to continue the RSS feed on your blog!  Although I probably will…it isn’t your fault, Stephanie, that I broke all my own rules and did a flat gauge swatch in stockinette instead of an in-the-round gauge swatch in pattern.  Don’t get me wrong – I’d LIKE to pin it on you…but in all honesty, it’s my own silly fault!
In closing…please do as I say, rather than as I did this time around – swatch for a project in the yarn, with the needles, in the stitch pattern and in the technique you plan to use for the project!  And I promise I’ll do the same from now on!  Truly! 

Oh, and if the sweater does indeed end up as a gift – I’ll make myself another one!  I LOVE this yarn!